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Ek Balam, Mexico's Hidden Jewel of Mayan Splendour
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Habeeb Salloum
After driving for about 20 minutes to the north of Valladolid, our bus stopped at the Mayan renovated gate of the ruins of the newly excavated archaeological site of Ek Balam (in Mayan Black Jaguar) - once the capital of a wealthy state of 250,000. One of the ultimate jewels of Mayan splendour the ruins are rarely visited by the thousands of travellers who flock to the land of the Maya. Unlike its sister city, Chichén Itzá, some 30 minutes drive away, Ek Balam, built by Lord Ek Balam who ruled for 40 years, has never been overwhelmed with tourists. Quieter and more peaceful than its sister city, it exudes an aura of satisfying pleasure to the few travellers who stroll amid its partially excavated structures.
 The city, when compared to other Mayan cities had a long span of life - about a thousand years. Its construction began in 100 B.C. and continued until 900 A.D., rising from 600 to 900 A.D., to the pinnacle of glory. Some historians believe that it was still partially inhabited when the Spaniards arrived in the 16th century.
As happened to all Mayan urban centres, when the site was abandoned, it became almost totally engulfed by the dense low-lying Yucatán jungle - the roots of its trees cracking open and destroying the once majestic buildings. Archaeologists and adventurers, seeing hills covered with bush and trees in the very flat Mayan landscape, soon uncovered Ek Balam’s hidden treasures of beautifully preserved wall carvings and paintings. Excavating the mounds they unmasked structures and artefacts hidden for hundreds of years.
Archaeologists have theorized that Ek Balam was one of the most prosperous agricultural and trading centres in the Yucatán. Its wealth, reflected in its monumental buildings, came from the slave trade and from the production of corn, salt and honey - much of which are still produced in the area.
The most important of its uncovered structures is the enormous and elaborate palace/pyramid - a striking sight after driving for miles through the surrounding jungle. The largest restored building in the ruins and one of the largest Mayan structures in the Yucatán, it measures over 151 m (495 ft) long, 60 m (197 ft) wide and 30 m (98 ft) high. The structure consists of six levels, added on by different rulers during the centuries. This unique religious-civil edifice was, beside its use for religious ceremonies, the home of governors and the higher classes of society.
The temple's expanse and layout is found no place else in the Yucatán. In the same fashion as in countless other towering temples in the Mayan lands, it came to be as a result of many generations of development - addition after addition. Archaeologists have only unearthed sections of the temple. There could be much more.
 Ek Balam’s restoration began in 1993, but has been only pursued in earnest since 1997. However, only a number of the city’s main buildings have been unearthed and, to some extent restored. Work is continuing at a fast pace on 19 of the some 600 mounds in the12 sq km ( 4.6 mi) of the ruins.
We began our exploration by entering the ruins on the side of a renovated typical Mayan arch - once the entrance into the city. Three walls surrounded Ek Balam but they were not high enough to provide protection. It is believed that they were only used for ceremonial purposes. To the right, the wall of a large rounded structure caught our eye. The Mayan did not often build rounded structures and this is one of the few to be found in the Yucatán. Passing through a small Ball Court, we saw looming before us the majestic pyramid
Its size was impressive and I could hardly wait to climb the steps of this imposing structure. Crossing the plaza before the pyramid with its edging small ceremonial temples, we begin our climb. About half way up its face, we stepped on a platform to gaze above us at an ornate and breathtaking stucco wall, forming the entrance to an opening of an impressive mausoleum for one of the masters of Ek Balam - a marvel of the excellence of Mayan artwork.
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The doorway is formed in the shape of a jaguar's mouth, edged by fearsome looking fangs. Around are full life-like statues with so much elaboration that you can see the braids in their hair and the design of their loincloths. Along with well-preserved paintings, hieroglyphs of corn, in excellent shape, pose besides fighting men with skulls hung on their waistbands. These works of art from the Mayan age of splendour, found nowhere else in the Mayan lands, held me spellbound and were the highlight of our visit to Ek Balam.
Continuing our climb upward, we soon reached the top of the pyramid. From this vantage point, we could survey all the other structures of Ek Balam, as well a two large tree-studded hills – un-restored buildings, waiting for the excavators. They gave us an idea as to how Ek Balam looked before it was partially reclaimed from the jungle.
 Beyond the ruins, the surrounding deep-green jungle appeared like a huge emerald necklace hugging this once great urban centre. It was a picture postcard of enchanting beauty.
I was engulfed in this charming and delightful handiwork of both nature and man when my friend who, along with myself, had huffed and puffed our way up the pyramid steps, remarked, “Ek Balam is truly a hidden gem undiscovered by modern tourists. Just look, what they are missing!” Of course, I could only agree. Ek Balam is truly a must for any traveller interested in the Mayan world.
IF YOU GO
How to Get There:
The best way to see Ek Balam is to join a tour group in Cancún or in Mérida. However, there are public buses, which leave hourly from both Cancún or Mérida for Chichén Itzá, then a taxi can taken from Chichén Itzá or Valladolid. If one wants to drive, the highways are excellent, but the tolls are quite steep - about $16. One way from Cancún to Ek Balam
Facts About Ek Balam and the Yucatán:
1) A small car rents for about $60. U.S. per day but less if you bargain or are not fussy about the auto.
3) When travelling to El Balam or any of the other Mayan ruins - wear a hat and comfortable shoes and take sun block lotion.
4) Beware! It is a criminal offence to take artefacts or souvenirs from the sites or out of the country.
5) The official Mexican currency is the peso currently trading at around - 10.5 pesos to a US dollar - 9 pesos to a CDN dollar.
6) The usual tips for baggage handlers and bellboys is $1.00 per suitcase; maids $1.00 per day and 50 cents for washroom attendants.
7) When you leave Mexico there is a ‘Departure Tax’ of about $18.00 US per person but
this tax is usually included in your airline ticket.
For Further Information, Contact:
In Canada contact the Mexican Tourism Board - 2 Bloor St. West, Suite 1502, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2. Tel: (416) 925 0704. Fax: (416) 925 6061. E-mail: toronto@visitmexico.com. Also Toll free number: 1-800-44 MEXICO. Web: www.visitmexico.com or E-mail: contact@visitmexico.com; in the U.S.A. 375 Park Avenue, Floor 19, Suite 1905, New York, NY 10152, USA. Tel: (212) 308 2110. Fax: (212) 308 9060. E-mail:
newyork@visitmexico.com
July
2006
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Habeeb Salloum is a Freelance Writer and Author
who writes from Don Mills (Toronto), Ontario, Canada. Tel: 416-445-4558, Fax: 416-510-2143.
E-mail: habeeb.salloum@sympatico.ca
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