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Travelling
To Mexico's City of The Gods
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Habeeb Salloum
"Today, we're going the abode of the gods - the old and the new", Jorge, our guide grinned as we boarded the mini bus on our way to the ruins of Teotihuacán, called by the Aztecs the ‘City of the Gods’. I was intrigued, ‘City of the Gods?’ It sounded appealing! Unusual for Mexico City, the traffic flowed freely this Saturday morning as we made our way along Paseo de la Reforma - a wide tree-lined boulevard dotted with statues of historic figures.
At the Plaza of the Three Cultures, we quickly tumbled out of our bus. Before us was a fascinating sight, dramatically portraying three periods of Mexico City's history. Overlooking the excavated remains of Aztec temples was an ancient-looking church built from the stones of the demolished pyramids. Erected in 1609 by the Spaniards, the church stands on the same spot where the Aztecs once had their most important marketplace in the region.
The Aztec and Spanish relics from the past are rounded out by the nearby modern Foreign Ministry building - hence, the Plaza of Three Cultures. As we drove away from the site, one of the members of our group remarked, “Man builds and man destroys - the cycle continues.”
Soon, we had left the city and entered the State of Mexico, driving toward Teotihuacán - today one of the world’s most important archaeological zones. For mile after mile, on both sides of the road, shanty towns sprawled on hillsides as far as the eye could see. Officially, Mexico City has a population of some 24 million, but it is hard to see how an enumeration could be made in these shanty towns where there is literally no public services.
“How do the people in these huts make a living and how do they get to town?” I asked Jorge. He smiled, “They peddle goods or have menial jobs in the city. They get there by subway. We have 190 kilometres of subway lines and it costs only 2 pesos to any point in the city, but the subway cars are always crowded. Six million travel the subway every day.” Grinning, he continued, “It's the cheapest place in the world to have both a sauna bath and a massage for these few cents.”
  Some 48 km (30 mi) from Mexico City, we arrived at Teotihuacán, believed by the Aztecs, to have been the graveyard of kings who on their death were transformed into gods. Entering the ruins, we passed a sign stating, ‘Welcome to the city of the gods’. For visitors like us, it is an appropriate invitation to Mexico's most popular tourist attraction and that country's first true city.
The 34 sq km (13 sq mi) Teotihuacán, the most awe-inspiring archeological site in Mexico, began to be built in 200 B.C. and took hundreds of years to be finished. The first major city in the Western Hemisphere, it flourished between 500 B.C. and 700 A.D. It served as the religious, political and commercial mecca of Mexico, spreading its influence well into Central America.
With its 200,000 inhabitants, it was the most advanced urban centre in the world of its time - the walls of its buildings covered with murals and painted red, the most commonly used colour for the decoration of the whole city. The city had an advanced water system and sewers - remnants of which can still be seen today. The city, with its amazing level of urbanization, was mysteriously burned the late 8th century and, thereafter, it became a ghost-town. When the Aztecs discovered it centuries later, it was a heap of ruins.
 Teotihuacán culture heavily influenced later Maya, Toltec and Aztec societies. The early Teotihuacán populace did not practise human sacrifice. This was only introduced by later indigenous civilizations when it became the ceremonial centre that the cult of Quetzalcóatl, which heavily revolved around human sacrifice and this played an important role in these civilizations.
Today, the language and history of this once important ancient city, and even its original name, are lost. Teotihuacán,‘Place of the Gods’, was given to it by the Aztecs. They believed that from this ceremonial city the gods created the world.
For visitors there is much to see and do in this oldest city in the Americas. However, like us, most tourists come on a tour and, hence, have time limits on their activities and can only explore certain sites.
Included in all the tours are: the Temple of the Sun, a massive 66 m (216 ft) high pyramid, which once had a temple crowning its top; the smaller but equally awesome 44 m (144 ft) high Temple of the Moon; the Grand Avenue of the Dead, edged on both sides by small temples dedicated to various gods; the Temple of Quetzalcóatl with its enormous ornamental plumed serpent heads; and Palacio de Quetzalpapalotl, the most important and luxurious building in the city and believed to have been inhabited by a high priest. All these restored structures retain only about 20% of the original structures - the remaining 80% is restoration.
As I huffed and puffed struggling up the steep 250 steps to reach the top of the Temple of the Sun, I thought that time had passed me by and that I should not have tried such a foolhardy climb. Nevertheless, this was soon forgotten when I heard a half dozen teenagers passing me complaining of how the climb was killing them. Their complaints revived my sagging spirits as I followed them upward. If they were protesting, why at the age of 74 should I complain?.
At the top, where the ancient priests once stood, I breathed the clean cool air - a great relief from Mexico City's smog - and surveyed the scene. Downward below me, the 4 km (2.5) Walkway of the Dead, the main avenue of the city, looked like a thin line edged by tiny structures and dominated at one end by the Temple of the Moon - dwarfing all other structures. Edging the other end was the Citadel, a vast architectural complex surrounded by a quadrangular structure called the Gran Platform, believed to have been the home of priests and rulers. Beyond, the green hills of the countryside, hugged the ruins in a loving embrace. It was a fantastic adieu to the ancient city where it is said ‘the gods were born’.
IF YOU GO
Facts About A Trip to Teotihuacán:
1) The simplest and easiest way to see Teotihuacán is to take a group tour from Mexico City. An all day tour costs $32. - can be joined from any hotel.
2) If you drive, entrance fee into the ruins of Teotihuacán is about $3.50.
3) Currency can be exchanged at banks or exchange houses (casas de cambio) at the airport or in town. Acceptance of US dollars is not uncommon, although change may be given in pesos - currently US$1. around 11 pesos.
4) Small cars, fully insured with unlimited mileage, rent for about $70. per day. Beware! It is not easy to drive in Mexico City.
5) Good places to eat excellent Mexican food in Mexico City: Los Girasoles, next door to the Palace of Fine Arts; and La Tecla Restaurant - average cost of a meal at both restaurants from $25. to $30. For an upscale Mexican meal, try Izote Restaurant whose chef is the renowned cookbook author Patricia Quintana - cost of meal per person from $50. to $100.
Shrine of the Virgin of Guadalupe:
The shrine, usually included on the tour to Teotihuacán, is the most sacred spot in Mexico and the second most visited religious shrine in the world. The story is that in 1531, a recently converted ‘Indian’ named Juan Diego received from the Virgin a cloak imprinted with her image. An enormous basilica, where the cloak is on display, was erected on land sacred to the Aztecs for its association with the mother goddess, Tonantzin. Like almost all the early Mexican churches, it was built by ‘Indian’ slaves who now toiled for the new God. Today, the site is a complex of churches - the latest, a huge circular building. Annually, pilgrims come in the millions to pay homage to Mexico's most beloved Saint.
Where to Stay in Mexico City:
Mexico City has hundreds hotels to satisfy all tastes. One of the best hotels to make your abode is the Sheraton Maria Isabel. Located in the heart of the financial and shopping district, edging the Zona Rosa, it is a luxury hotel with 755 rooms, which include luxurious suites and penthouses as well as other types of rooms. Paso de la Reforma 325, Mexico D.F. Tel: 52-55-5242-555. Fax: 52-55-5207-0684. E-Mail: smi@sheraton-maria-isabel.com Website: sheraton.com/mexicocity Cost of a standard room, $189.; Executive room, $234.
Note: All prices quoted are in US dollars.
For Further Information, Contact:
In Canada contact the Mexican Tourism Board - 2 Bloor St. West, Suite 1502, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2. Toll free number: 1 800 44 MEXICO. Web: www.visitmexico.com or Fax: 416/925-6061; in the U.S.A. 21 East 63rd Street, 3rd Floor, New York, NY 10021, Tel: (212) 821-0314. Fax: (212) 821-0367. E-mail: newyork@visitmexico.com
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Habeeb Salloum writes from
Canada
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